Red-Footed Tortoise Care Guide

Radical Red-Footed Tortoise!

Red-footed tortoises are a medium sized tortoise that is native to South America. They can be found across a variety of environments, from arid grasslands to tropical forests. Unlike turtles, tortoises are land-dwelling and do not swim. These cute tortoises have lots of variety in their appearance, mostly due to the different environments they come from! They are full of personality, and owners often report that their tortoise will run (well, running speed for a tortoise) over to beg for food, and enjoy being rubbed on their head and neck.

Red-footed tortoise species profile

Size: Red-footed tortoise grow up to 14" (35cm) shell-length.

Lifespan: They can live up to 50 years

Habitat needs: Warm, humid, fully terrestrial

Behavior: Red-foots are very bright tortoise and learn patterns quickly. Because of that, people report they learn to identify their care givers quickly and may approach you looking for snacks. They are not super social with other tortoise, but are not very prone to territorial behaviors. This is to say your tortoise will be perfectly happy as an only child, but will probably do okay with one other tortoise if you want multiple.

Temperament: Red-footed tortoises are considered to be the friendliest of the tortoises and can become very accustom to human interaction

Handling tips: A hungry or excited tortoise may mistake your finger for treats, so use caution when hand feeding. Placing treats on a dish, on the floor of the enclosure, or offering treats that are longer so you have some distance between your fingers and your tortoise’s mouth (like a lettuce leaf, for example) are all good options.

Setting up your red-footed tortoise habitat

Red-footed tortoises need a spacious, humid environment with steady access to warmth, shelter, and UVB light. Proper substrate, heating, and lighting are key to keeping your tortoise active and healthy.

Enclosure setup

Size: A single juvenile tortoise needs at least a 50-gallon enclosure with a screened lid for ventilation
Substrate: Use 2–3 inches of tortoise-safe substrate such as reptile carpet, cypress mulch, bark-style bedding, or moss
- Avoid sand or gravel, which may be accidentally ingested and lead to dangerous intestinal blockages
Lighting: Set up your reptile lighting outside the terrarium, over top the screened lid, so your tortoise has a warm area to bask in but cannot get so close to the bulb that they are burned.
- Place a high-wattage basking lamp directly above an open area designated for basking during the day. At night, use a ceramic heat-emitter, under-tank heater or nighttime heat bulb. 
- Many reptiles benefit from having access to UVB lighting. UVB allows the body to synthesize vitamin D3 which is critical for absorption of calcium. Some daylight bulbs will be rated to also provide UVB, and some won’t so it is important to check. Providing low-intensity UVB light over the basking site is recommended. 
Add large hides on both sides of the enclosure so your tortoise can regulate their temperature, even at rest. 
Cleaning: Remove droppings daily and change substrate monthly, or more often if soiled

Temperature and humidity

Red-footed tortoises need a temperature gradient to self-regulate, meaning one side of their habitat should be warm and one side should be a little cooler. Place thermometers on both the warm and cool ends of the enclosure and use a hygrometer to monitor humidity.

Zone	Temperature
Cool side	70–85°F (21–30°C)
Warm side	85–90°F (29–32°C)
Basking spot	90–95°F (32–35°C)
Night	70–80°F (18–27°C)
Humidity	50–80%

Feed your red-footed tortoise

Red-footed tortoises are omnivores with a strong preference for leafy greens, fruits, and occasional protein. Feed during the day when your tortoise is most active, and always use a shallow feeding dish to reduce the risk of ingesting substrate.

Daily greens

Offer once per day:
- Spring mix
- Dark leafy greens
- Assorted vegetables
Supplements:
- Calcium powder: 2–3 times per week
- Reptile multivitamin: Twice per month or as directed by your veterinarian

Occasional fruit

Once or twice a week:
- Berries
- Melon
- Kiwi
- Banana
- Apple slices

Protein (every 3–4 weeks)

While not a staple, red-footed tortoises benefit from occasional high-protein foods:

Gut-loaded mealworms, crickets, or dubia roaches
Appropriately sized, frozen-then-thawed rodents
Unseasoned cooked chicken or shrimp
Superworms
Hard-boiled egg

Water

Provide clean, fresh water at all times
Use a shallow dish wide enough for soaking
Wash and refill daily

What does “gut-loaded” mean?

Gut-loaded insects have been fed a nutrient-rich diet prior to being offered to your pet. This boosts the nutritional value of the insects, helping support your tortoise’s long-term health.

Important: Never feed your tortoise wild insects. They may carry parasites or chemical residues that could make your pet seriously ill.

When to see a vet

In addition to regularly scheduled appointments, contact your reptile veterinarian if you notice the following signs:

more time hiding in shell
eating or drinking less; weight loss; labored breathing
shell problems; discolored shell
swollen joints
discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
runny droppings for more than two days
reluctance to move

Go to “find a vet” on arav.org for help finding a reptile veterinarian in your area.

NOTE: Most, if not all, reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria in their intestinal tract and intermittently or continuously shed these bacteria in their feces, so they are unsuitable pets for very young children and those with compromised immune systems. Good hygiene must always be practiced around all reptiles, and hands should be washed before and after interacting with reptiles.

SHOPPING CHECKLIST

50-gallon (36" long) terrarium or larger
large pen (like a kiddie pool) for safe exploration
screened lid
reptile bedding/carpet
basking bulb and lamp
UVA/UVB bulb and fixture
nighttime bulb or ceramic heat emitter
habitat thermometer(s) and a hygrometer
hide (this can be a box, a cave made from a cut-in-half flower pot, etc)
spray bottle for misting or automatic fogger
food dish and water bowl
prepared tortoise pellet blend
mealworms, crickets and/or dubia roaches
calcium powder and multivitamin powder

Ready to learn more? This guide is a great starting place, but we encourage you to do more research on the individual species that you are keeping so that you can be as successful as possible!

Related guides:

FAQs

Do red-footed tortoises make good beginner pets?
They’re friendly and full of personality, but their long lifespan, dietary variety, and habitat needs make them better suited for pet parents with some reptile experience.

Can I keep more than one red-footed tortoise together?
Yes, but only with caution. While red-foots are not highly territorial, housing two tortoises together can still lead to food competition or stress. Monitor them closely and provide ample space.

How often should I bathe my red-footed tortoise?
Offer shallow soaking opportunities a few times per week. Many tortoises will soak themselves if water is always available. A soak helps with hydration and supports shedding and digestion.

Do red-footed tortoises need UVB lighting?
Yes. UVB light helps them metabolize calcium and prevents metabolic bone disease. Provide 12 hours of low-intensity UVB light each day, along with a basking lamp.

Can I take my red-footed tortoise outside?
Yes, supervised outdoor time is beneficial as long as the temperature is safe (around 75–90°F) and there's access to shade. Always supervise to prevent injury or escape.